A Berry With a Miraculous Effect

In 1725 the explorer Reynaud des Marchais observed that a West African tribe obsessively chewed an unfamiliar red berry before meals. Brazenly, he decided to try one himself without knowing the strength of the effect.  The effect was staggering.  I know this because I recently chewed the same berry at the B-side Liquor Lounge in Cleveland Heights, Ohio.

The “miracle berry” contains a protein, called miraculin, that bamboozles sour and acid receptive taste buds into thinking they are sensing sugar, thus making sour foods taste like candy.  When I bit the grape sized fruit, it tasted mildly sweet, until the seed cracked and released its bitter tannins.  Still, I swished the pulp around my mouth for a minute, as instructed by the “Flavor Tripping” party hosts chef Matt Mytro (Stove Monkeys, Crop Bistro, Paladar, Boulevard Blue) and promoter Reuben Kutash.

Then I tried a lime wedge.  I hate lime wedges.  And for the tiniest micro-instant I tasted lime wedge.  But the tartness flip-flopped.  It transformed to an astonishing succulent sweetness.  Lime-loathe metamorphosed to lime-love. The flavor was full and true, not weak or artificial at all.  No hint of sour remained.  And remember, miraculin is a protein, not a sugar or sugar derivative.  I next downed a glass of straight balsamic vinegar.  Yum.  My least favorite shot, tequila, spawned an ear-to-ear grin.  Willy Wonka would have been proud.  In fact, Mr. Myrto and Mr. Kutash provided a large array of morsels fresh from the West Side Market with which to provoke the reaction of the berry.

The reaction varied.  For me, Guinness became smooth and light, while for some it was actually chocolatey.  The pattern I discerned was that the more acid the food or drink, the more uniform the (positive) response.  But a few people claimed the berry was no miracle at all.  Mr. Kutash explained that about 5% of the participants regretfully do not “trip.”  Most, however, start pigging out.

The amazing influence of the berry has inspired attempts to commercialize isolated miraculin as an alternative sweetener, dietary supplement for diabetics, or flavor aid to counter medication-induced effects on taste, so far to no avail (thwarted by the sugar lobby, some claim).  The most popular use in the U.S. remains the cult-like Flavor Tripping parties.  Mr. Myrto and Mr. Kutash indeed plan future flavored feasts at B-side and other establishments all over the city.

After an hour, I noticed the natural hoppyness of my Sierra Nevada Pale Ale overtake the berry-induced fruitiness.  My taste buds regained control, and the trip safely ended.  The night had been a profound adventure in sense altering.  And since scientists have still not identified the mechanism behind the effect, a miracle remains as good as explanation as any.

by Nick Kaye